In the previous
release of Fish Tales I opened the door on the Tilefish family.
I will spare you a recap (or force you to read Part
I if you haven't already!) and move right into this month's
feature, Malacanthus. They stand opposite those featured
last month, Hoplolatilus, and represent the second
half of the Malacanthinae subfamily. If you did read last
month's piece, then you may want to forget a large part of
it because these two genera are not only different enough,
biologically speaking, for ichthyologists to assign them to
two distinct genera, but aquarium hobbyists should regard
them much the same - similar, but worthy of distinct characterization.
Meet the Family
In sharp contrast
to Hoplolatilus, Malacanthus (Bloch, 1786) was
formally described over 100 years prior to Hoplolatilus
with the formal introduction of M. plumieri. Furthermore,
Malacanthus has had no new additions to the genus since
before Hoplolatilus existed! Lacepède (1801)
introduced M. latovittatus and Guichenot (1848) described
M. brevirostris to the world before the release of
M. plumieri (Gunther, 1887). In total, Malacanthus
is good for a hat-trick of species; that's three species,
for those unfamiliar with hockey-speak.
Malacanthidae
- Latilinae
- Malacanthinae
- Malacanthus
- brevirostris
- latovittatus
- plumieri
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The obvious reason for the distinct difference in the era
of their discovery within the same family is solely due to
the depths at which Malacanthus species are found.
Shallower depths did not need to wait for the invention of
S.C.U.B.A. before their first exploration, thus fish found
in shallow water were the first that science had the opportunity
to formally describe.
A rather plain pale blue color dominates Malacanthus
brevirostris, but it is the markings on its tail
which yield its common name of Flagtail Tilefish. This
species does not relate to erecting burrows as much
as they prefer to dig them out from underneath already
existing large rocks. Photo by Dr John Randall.
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In the Wild
Only one species
from Malacanthinae occurs in the Caribbean or Atlantic Ocean
- Malacanthus plumieri. Records indicate individuals
erecting ruble fortresses as far north as South Carolina and
continuing south through Brazil. Ascension Island is their
maximum eastward distribution, and their westerly distribution
is stopped only by landfall along the American, Mexican and
South American shorelines. The remaining two species in the
genus Malacanthus, M. brevirostris and M.
latovittatus, are widespread in the Indo-Pacific, both
hailing from the Red Sea south along East Africa, west through
Japan and stretching as far south as the cool waters of New
Caledonia and eastern Australia.
Although M. plumieri is twice the
size of the subfamily's next largest species, as hobbyists
we can still use its den size for reference with other species
of the subfamily. All members construct a similarly sized
den in proportion to their body size. Malacanthus plumieri
constructs a home over 6' wide and 3' deep. The territory
these fish will extend outside their den is impressive. Malacanthus
species are not nearly as frightful as their Hoplolatilus
cousins, resulting in a much larger home range. Adult males
of M. plumieri have been known to actively patrol an
area 100 x 100 feet, or 10,000ft2 (Michael, 2004).
An adult Malacanthus plumieri is seen here, hovering
just off the side of its burrow. Photo by Henry C. Schultz
III.
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In contrast to the plankton-feeding Hoplolatilus
genus, Malacanthus species generally do their hunting
on the seafloor. Their meal tickets are brittle stars, crabs
and various shrimps, including small mantis shrimp. For the
larger individuals, small wrasses and other fish, eels and
well
pretty
much anything they can catch and swallow is fair game. Although
these fish become large, their streamlined body shape includes
a slender jaw line; one that is nowhere near the proportions
of a similarly sized grouper.
The sharply pointed jaw line characteristic of the Malacanthus
genus is easily seen in this photo of Malacanthus
latovittatus. In my opinion this is the most attractive
member of Malacanthus. The Striped Tilefish,
or sometimes called the Blue Tilefish, can be kept as
a solitary individual, although pairs are still recommended.
Photo by Dr. John Randall.
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Whereas Hoplolatilus sp. has not allowed ichthyologists
the opportunity to witness a spawning event, Malacanthus
plumieri has given biologists at least a small insight
into their sexual behavior. The protogynous hermaphroditic
males mate with a small harem of females, usually numbering
up to six individuals. All these females are closely guarded
during the daylight hours by the male, but they do not share
their burrows with one another. Each female may defend a territory
up to 300 square yards, but 50 - 100 square yards is more
common. A single male may have to cover up to 900 - 1000 square
yards in order to defend all the females in his harem. Females
mated during up to 80% of the nights when they were observed,
often mating two or three times each night (DeLoach, 1999).
Malacanthus species release their eggs and gametes
several feet into the water column, thus ensuring a large
geographical spread of their pelagic larvae. Because Hoplolatilus
are also pelagic, they are assumed to perform this same release
of gametes and eggs as well.
As might be expected with a large mound of rubble smack in
the middle of a sand bottom seafloor, this structure tends
to attract a lot of attention. For example, the Caribbean
Tilefish's mound attracts Yellowhead Jawfish on the den's
outskirts, Lantern Bass on the den's fringing edge, Scorpionfish
sitting inside the rubble mound and Cherub Angelfish roaming
throughout the entire micro ecosystem.
In the Home Aquarium
Remembering the
previous discussion on Hoplolatilus, I discussed their
being delicate and poor shippers; more often than not it's
difficult to acquire a healthy specimen. Fortunately, Malacanthus
species are considerably different. As they most likely are
collected from shallower waters, they usually arrive at local
stores in decent health and, consequently, adapt easily to
a home aquarium.
They are still scared, though, of most
anything quicker or larger than themselves, but within a peaceful
aquarium they typically settle in more quickly and become
bolder than their Hoplolatilus cousins. However, they
may feed upon the small gobies and pipefish generally considered
ideal tankmates for Hoplolatilus. As a result the hobbyist
needs to ensure that any tankmates do not appear to be bite-sized
morsels. This especially includes mobile invertebrates such
as ornamental shrimp, which will likely end up as worm food
after exiting the Tilefish's backside. Again, corals are not
at risk unless they resemble construction materials.
Compatibility
chart for Malacanthus species:
Fish |
Will
Co-Exist
|
May
Co-Exist
|
Will
Not Co-Exist
|
Notes |
Angels,
Dwarf |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Angels,
Large |
|
X
|
|
Larger
individuals will likely frighten the Tilefish. |
Anthias |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Assessors |
|
|
X
|
The
Tilefish may harass the Assessor. |
Basses |
|
X
|
|
Tilefish
should be added first. |
Batfish |
|
X
|
|
Tilefish
should be added first; start with juvenile Batfish. |
Blennies |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Boxfish |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Butterflies |
|
X
|
|
Tilefish
should be added first; start with a juvenile Butterfly. |
Cardinals |
|
X
|
|
Good
choice, but avoid adult Tilefish with juvenile Cardinals.
|
Catfish |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Comet |
|
X
|
|
Good
choice but add the Comet first. |
Cowfish |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Damsels |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened.
|
Dottybacks |
|
X
|
|
Stick
with the small, peaceful Dottybacks. |
Dragonets |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Drums |
|
X
|
|
Tilefish
in first; start with a juvenile Drum. |
Eels |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Filefish |
|
X
|
|
Tilefish
in first; start with a juvenile Filefish. |
Frogfish |
|
X
|
|
Ensure
that the Frogfish cannot swallow the Tilefish. |
Goatfish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Gobies |
|
X
|
|
Good
choice assuming the Tilefish cannot swallow the Goby.
|
Grammas |
|
X
|
|
Good
choice provided enough rockwork exists for the Gramma.
|
Groupers |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Hamlets |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened.
|
Hawkfish |
|
X
|
|
Tilefish
in first; start with a juvenile Hawkfish. |
Jawfish |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Lionfish |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Parrotfish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Pineapple
Fish |
|
X
|
|
Peaceful
nocturnal fish will require more rockwork than normal
for a Tilefish aquarium. |
Pipefish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened.
|
Puffers |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Rabbitfish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Sand
Perches |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened.
|
Scorpionfish |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Seahorses |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Snappers |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Soapfish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened.
|
Soldierfish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened.
|
Spinecheeks |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened.
|
Squirrelfish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened.
|
Surgeonfish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Sweetlips |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Tilefish |
|
X
|
|
Avoid
Hoplolatilus species. |
Toadfish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened.
|
Triggerfish |
|
|
X
|
Not
a good choice as the Tilefish will be harassed or frightened. |
Waspfish |
X
|
|
|
Good
choice. |
Wrasses |
|
X
|
|
Leopard,
Fairy and Flasher wrasses are all good choices. |
Note: While many of the fish are listed
as possible tankmates for Malacanthus species, you
should research each fish individually before adding it to
your aquarium. Some of the mentioned fish are better left
in the ocean or for advanced aquarists.
Ah, yes, I do believe I failed to mention
"aquarium size" in the above paragraph. This always
makes for an interesting discussion when larger fish enter
the picture, and this is obviously the case with Malacanthus
species - in particular, M. plumieri. Any fish that
can reach 24" in length certainly needs an aquarium at
least 8' in length and several feet wide before it will truly
begin to settle in and feel comfortable. This poses a financial
obstacle to most hobbyists, and thus I recommend the much
smaller Malacanthus species as an alternative to the
larger ones. Keeping species reaching lengths of up to 12"
is a much more realistic alternative for a home aquarium,
if not still near the upper limit. Nevertheless, aquariums
around the 200-gallon mark and 6' long will do fine for most
Malacanthus species, given a minimalist approach, while
appreciably larger aquariums should be considered essential
for large adults.
Although Malacanthus species are
not planktivores in the wild, they will learn to feed from
the water column in a home aquarium. A well-balanced diet
constructed around a carnivore's dietary requirements is essential
for Tilefish. Various shrimp, including Artemia, Mysis
and prawn should be provided, as well as silversides for the
larger individuals. Malacanthus species are active
fish and therefore require fairly large portions of food.
Rather than trying to get a large amount of food to the fish
in one feeding, break the feedings into at least two separate
feedings per day.
Once again, rubble piles are of the utmost
concern for successfully keeping these fish. This means having
an extensive amount of excess rubble available for continual
addition to the aquarium as needed. The Tilefish will place
the rubble where they want it, so as an aquarist you need
to concern yourself merely with getting it into the aquarium;
the fish will undoubtedly find it anywhere it lies within
the enclosed glass box. Larger rock walls or caverns are not
necessary, unless required by other aquarium inhabitants.
Open sand stretches covering at least one end of the aquarium
are advisable to assist with the rubble architect's comfort
level.
In this photo the Tilefishe's rubble pile is clearly
visible. Although the pile seems to exist only along
the surface and not have much depth to it, the constant
sand shifting from tidal currents works to bury the
pile daily. The pile depth extends down into
the sand, rather than upwards like a mountain. Photo
by Henry C. Schultz III.
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Much the same as Hoplolatilus species,
Malacanthus species require a tight-fitting lid on
the aquarium. As they are not as frightful as their smaller
cousins, Malacanthus species are not as likely to perform
airborne acrobatics and suffer self-induced dehydration, but
this is a simple, effective and affordable precaution which
should be taken nonetheless.
Meet the Species
The Atlantic M.
plumieri can be found for sale in American markets, but
it has never truly gained much fanfare. The Sand Tilefish,
the rather boring common name granted to the largest of aquarium-kept
Tilefish M. plumieri, can create burrows as deep as
3' and as wide as 6'. A deep sand bed large enough to satisfy
that requirement would almost certainly bring a tear to Dr.
Shimek's eye.
A juvenile Malacanthus plumieri hides in the
sea grass for protection. Once large enough and feeling
bold enough, this juvenile will move off the grass flats
into deeper water and begin building its burrow. Photo
by Dr John Randall.
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The remaining two Malacanthus species
attain sizes roughly only half that of M. plumieri.
Although 12" is still a very large fish for a home aquarium,
this no doubt is a better choice than their larger Atlantic
cousin. The most attractive member, M. latovittatus,
features bold striping which evidently resulted in their common
name - the Striped Tilefish. Another key feature which makes
the Striped Tilefish an attractive consideration is the color
difference manifested between juveniles and adults. The almost
entirely black juvenile slowly loses most of its black coloration,
which is replaced by a magnificent electric blue with a black
stripe originating from the tail and fading as it approaches
the gills. Perhaps in an attempt to gain protection while
they are young, the juveniles' coloration is similar to that
of Labroides dimidiatus.
Conclusion
The constant construction
zone encircling the Tilefish's den is certainly entertaining
to observe firsthand. Not only that, but when provided with
optimum housing conditions, Tilefish set up a natural home
and thrive in a home aquarium, providing the aquarist with
many years of enjoyment. As with most any decorative saltwater
animal, however, inappropriate conditions will cause a lack
of natural behavior, characteristics and personality, and
thus will stress the fish and cause its early demise. This
is a family of fish which requires a little extra planning
prior to purchase and a diligent search to find healthy specimens.
Performing each task, in turn, will no doubt go a long way
toward long-term success keeping Malacanthus species.
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