Do you call them Hepatus tangs? Some probably
prefer Palette tang or even Blue Palette tang. Others will
not recognize the name until you mention Flagtail tang or
Hippo tang. Did someone yell out Wedge-tail tang? I was first
introduced to them as Pacific Blue tangs, and thus that is
what I most often call them. Of course, to compound this confusion,
you can insert 'surgeonfish' or even 'doctorfish' for 'tang'
in any of these examples. Whatever you call it, the fish remains
the same: a bright blue colored fish with black and yellow
accents that might be the most popular Surgeonfish in the
marine aquarium hobby. For March, I'll take a look at Paracanthurus
hepatus (insert your favorite name here).
Photo courtesy of Greg Rothschild.
Meet the Family
The Pacific Blue surgeonfish is a member
of the family Acanthuridae. This family consists of three
sub-families, six genera, and seventy-two species (Michael,
1998). Every species possess a potent weapon just forward
of the base of the tail, on an area known as the caudal peduncle.
This weapon is similar to a dagger and consists of modified
scales. Extensive tests have been inconclusive in showing
any sort of venom associated with this knife-like spine, but
it is important to note that every fish cut with the caudal
peduncle from members of the sub-family Prionurinae have died
as a result of the wound (Baensch, 1994). Luckily, fish from
the sub-family Prionurinae rarely make it into the hobby.
Ichthyologists use the caudal peduncle to place each member
into one of the three sub-families. In all three sub-families
the dagger is attached closest to the base of the tail, and
extends toward the front of the fish. Paracanthurus hepatus
is a member of the sub-family Acanthurinae. These members
have a single caudal peduncle on each side that folds safely
away until needed. In the sub-family Nasinae the caudal peduncle
is fixed, and either 1 or even 2 of these daggers may be found
on each side of the fish. Finally, the last sub-family, called
Prionurinae, has three to ten bony plates alongside the peduncle
(Michael, 1998) and can have from three to six caudal peduncles
per side, though three is most common (Baensch, 1994).
Acanthurinae
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Acanthurus
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Ctenochaetus
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Paracanthurus
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Zebrasoma
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Nasinae
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Naso
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Prionurinae
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Prionurus
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Paracanthurus is the only genus
from Acanthuridae to be monotypic, meaning containing only
one species. At one point Paracanthurus contained two
species, but P. theuthis was later proven to be a synonym
of P. hepatus. Also, at one point Paracanthurus
was considered invalid, and this fish was recognized as Teuthis
hepatus. This disagreement has been settled, and we now
recognize the original 1766 description by Linnaeus.
In the Wild
The common name 'Pacific Blue tang' hopefully
indicates to you which ocean this fish originates from, however,
the Pacific Ocean is a rather large body of water. If you
truly wanted to view this fish in its wild habitat you would
find yourself most likely in Palau, Bali, or the Philippines,
but you could likely find it anywhere from East Africa to
the Great Barrier Reef, and into Southern Japan. In its native
waters Paracanthurus hepatus can be found as shallow
as 10 feet and as deep as 130 feet, though they are most common
somewhere in the middle of those two depths. They tend to
congregate where there are abundant food supplies, crystal
clear water, and an aggressive current. They will be found
at these depths foraging on zooplankton over outer reef slopes.
Juveniles tend to stay closer to cover,
usually found three to ten feet over the reef. The juveniles
will associate with Pocillopora eydouxi and use this
coral for shelter by diving into the branches and wedging
themselves tight into the coral. On occasion they may also
use various Acropora for this purpose. Adults, however, can
be located up to 30 feet or more above the reef feeding and
usually do not fit well into corals, and thus they primarily
use larger crevices in the reef structure to wedge into and
hide themselves (Coral
Realm).
Juveniles are usually found in loose aggregations
while feeding, and as they age will adapt into a more solitary
lifestyle. By the time they are adults, the only time they
are not solitary is when they are in small harems during mating
season. The rare occasion of 30 or more adults forming a school
is likely a result of the fish teaming up to overrun an aggressive
defender of a territory that has abundant food available.
Adults will join into groups of one male
and two to seven females during the mating season, which extends
from February through March in Micronesia. Males will aggressively
defend their small harem from rival males, though females
may move freely from one group to another. Several sub-groups
can be present in the same location, though, if ample room
is available; 100m2 to 200m2
provides enough room for five to eight sub-groups to maintain
adequate territories (Robertson, 1983). Spawning takes place
in pairs only, at which time the male's coloration fades everywhere
with the exception of the black markings and the head. The
female changes color by altering the black to a gray. This
sexual dichromatism exists only during spawning and, besides
the spawning, no sexual dichromatism exists. There is a sexual
dimorphism however, with the males being slightly larger than
the females.
Photo courtesy of Greg Rothschild.
In the Home Aquarium
As a whole, Hippo tangs do very well in
aquariums. With few exceptions, they are considered hardy
and durable aquarium fish. A few criteria need to be met to
ensure successful husbandry, however.
I am sure that after a year of saying this
I am starting to sound like a broken record, but the story
remains the same for most any aquarium fish. The first consideration
is a well-aged and stable aquarium. Surgeonfish are definitely
not an exception, and in particular, Paracanthurus hepatus
requires stable water conditions. This fish has been garnished
the nick-name of 'ich magnet' by many aquarists, thanks to
the likelihood of it developing a case of Cryptocaryon
irritans when newly introduced to an aquarium. If the
aquarium has appropriate water conditions, which mirror natural
sea water as closely as possible, and suitable tank mates,
which will not pester the new addition, it should recover
from this affliction with little intervention from the hobbyist.
Watch closely for a secondary bacterial infection, which is
a sure sign that the fish cannot overcome this illness without
your help. Upon first observation of this infection, treatment
in a quarantine tank should start immediately.
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Photo courtesy of Bob Nell.
The obvious next consideration is tank
mates. Overall, Hepatus surgeonfish will not bother other
tank inhabitants. Except for the rare occasion, they will
not bother sessile invertebrates. Crabs, snails, and other
mobile invertebrates will also be largely ignored. This combination
makes them perfect inhabitants for a reef aquarium. In regards
to finned friends, the Palette tang will not bother anyone,
with the possible exception of the lionfish, as sometimes
it's fluttering fins are too much to resist. In general, Palette
tangs are quite skittish. Hard to imagine from a fish that
spends its afternoons 30 feet above cover searching for food.
Or is it? Perhaps the extended distance required in finding
adequate food is actually the root cause for the skittish
behavior. Any perceived threat results in the immediate dash
for suitable cover. Not hard to understand considering cover
is usually a good ways off. Unfortunately, this instinct carries
over into the home aquarium. As a result, active swimming
fish may inhabit the acclimation process of newly arrived
Hepatus surgeonfish. If the Hepatus tang is the most active
fish in the aquarium when it is added, it will adapt to captivity
quicker. Larger or more active fish can be added to the aquarium
once the Hepatus has acclimated to aquarium conditions, however.
At least for the first week or two you can expect Paracanthurus
hepatus to spend more time pinned into rockwork than actually
swimming in the aquarium. As it settles in you can expect
this to shift in the opposite direction until finally the
fish rarely hides. If other large, active fish are present
in the aquarium, it may never fully adjust, and it may spend
an appreciable amount of time in seclusion. Conspecifics and
other larger fish may force the need for defensive measures.
The defensive mechanism of Palette tangs is the aforementioned
caudal peduncle, which, like all members of the sub-family
Acanthurinae, is kept tucked away until an 80-degree twist
of the tail reveals the deadly weapon. Speaking from personal
experience with Hippo tangs, the dagger easily breaks the
skin of a human hand, and remains painful for over a week.
Lastly, though it should be obvious, do not mix juvenile Hippo
tangs with larger fish capable of swallowing them.
Compatibility
chart for Paracanthurus hepatus:
Fish
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Will Co-Exist
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May Co-Exist
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Will Not Co-Exist
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Notes
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Angels, Dwarf
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Angels, Large
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Anthias
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Assessors
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Basses
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Batfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Blennies
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Boxfishes
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Butterflies
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Cardinals
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Catfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Comet
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Cowfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Damsels
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Dottybacks
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X
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Some dottybacks require dedicated aquariums.
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Dragonets
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Drums
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Eels
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Filefish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Frogfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Goatfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Gobies
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Grammas
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Groupers
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Hamlets
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X
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Should be good tank mates.
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Hawkfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Jawfish
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X
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Jawfish in first.
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Lionfish
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X
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Should co-exist fine, but watch for harassment from
tang.
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Parrotfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Pineapple Fish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Pipefish
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X
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Pipefish require dedicated aquariums.
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Puffers
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Rabbitfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Sand Perches
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Scorpionfish
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X
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Same as lionfish.
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Seahorses
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X
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Seahorses require dedicated aquariums.
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Snappers
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Soapfishes
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Soldierfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Spinecheeks
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Squirrelfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Surgeonfish
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X
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Hippo in first.
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Sweetlips
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Tilefish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Toadfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Triggerfish
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X
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Some triggerfish require dedicated aquariums.
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Waspfish
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Wrasses
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X
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Should be excellent tank mates.
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Note: While many of the fish listed are
good tank mates for Paracanthurus hepatus, you should
research each fish individually before adding it to your aquarium.
Some of the fish mentioned are better left in the ocean, or
for advanced aquarists.
Another consideration to ponder is food
choices. As juveniles, Hepatus tangs are nearly strict planktivores.
However, as they age into adulthood, some individuals may
begin to supplement their diet with various algae such as
Caulerpa. This diet should be mimicked in the home
aquarium. Large portions of the diet should consist of Mysis
shrimp, and as the fish ages you should begin to supplement
the diet with various dried algae such as nori. Your fish
may or may not take to eating algae. Most any food presented
in the water column will eventually be taken, including enriched
brine, and flake. However, the staple of the diet should always
remain Mysis or plankton. My personal favorite is freeze-dried
plankton soaked in any of the widely available food vitamin
supplements. The diet is an important consideration, as Paracanthurus
hepatus are extremely prone to Head and Lateral Line Erosion
(HLLE). Though the root cause of HLLE has yet to be determined,
most researchers agree that an insufficient diet plays a large
role. Many times when the diet was improved, the condition
reversed and cured itself.
Photo courtesy of Greg Rothschild.
Finally, no discussion of Surgeonfish would
be complete without talking about tank size. This is an often-debated
topic that usually becomes heated on both sides of the fence.
Most everyone can agree, however, that the larger the aquarium
the better off the fish will be. Many authors recommend certain
"minimum" aquarium sizes; though it seems no one
can agree on exactly what the "minimum" is. Realistically
speaking, the "minimum" environment for these fish
is any aquarium the owner feels morally and ethically comfortable
putting the fish into. Each hobbyist must come to his or her
own conclusions, but hopefully these decisions are made only
after reviewing the data that is readily available.
Scroll back up to the paragraph discussing
mating rituals and you'll see that Robertson has already given
us a reference for territorial dimensions, at least during
the mating season. If you take the minimum number of animals
(15 - one male, two females, per group with five sub-groups)
divided by the minimum defined territory (100m2)
you'd discover the groups maintained a minimum of 20m2
each or a minimum of 6.66m2
per animal. For those of you not good with transcribing meters
into feet, 6.66m2 works
out to be roughly 21.8f2
per animal. That would be an aquarium roughly 7 feet long
and 3 feet wide. Hmmm. For the sake of argument let's take
the maximum number of individuals, packed into the largest
territory known. Sixty-four fish (one male, seven females
per group, and eight sub-groups) packed into 200m2.
This works out to 25m2 per
sub-group, or just over 3m2
per animal or about 10f2,
or about the size of any of the commercially available 125-gallon
aquariums. Hence, I would propose this is a good starting
point as the absolute minimum aquarium size for any solitary
individual.
Let's not forget, however, two important
factors. First, this fish only spends two months of the year
in such a confined space. The remaining ten months of the
year are spent cruising 30 feet above the reef, usually cruising
up to 30 meters in one direction before reaching the edge
of their territory (Randall, pers. comm.). Second, even when
in mating season and defending a territory of a given space,
this does not mean this is the only distance they swim. For
example, the fish may defend an area equivalent to seven feet
by three feet, but this does not mean the fish swims in a
circle that measures these dimensions, much like it would
have to in your aquarium. Instead, this means it requires
this much space as a minimum between its next conspecific.
What is more likely the case is it defends the minimum territory
as it roams about the reef ledge with the harem, or as it
swims to the next closest harem.
What is known from keeping these fish in
aquariums smaller than several hundred gallons is that the
end result is a fish with stunted growth. The extent of the
growth stunt is directly proportionate to the aquarium size.
Following Choat and Axe (1996) and the understanding that
Acanthurids obtain 80% of their growth in their first 15%
of life, you can get an idea of how fast they should be growing
in your aquarium. Combine this with an expected 35 years of
age per Acanthurid (Chaot and Axe, 1996), we come up with
80% growth obtained in 5.25 years. Let's take this a step
further and plug in the expected maximum size for Paracanthurus
hepatus, roughly 12". After doing the math you should
get the answer of Paracanthurus hepatus obtaining 9.6
inches at 5.25 years of age. Following the same reference,
which states the first 80% growth is fairly consistent, you
can take it yet one step farther to learn that your Paracanthurus
hepatus should be 1.8 inches after the first year, and
continue to grow nearly two inches every year from then until
five years of age, where their growth will slow and nearly
stop, at which time it should be nearly ten inches. You could
also use this same formula when trying to obtain an age of
a newly imported specimen.
At this point you should be adequately
prepared to determine if your Paracanthurus hepatus
has experienced stunted growth. The decision on how to handle
this situation is up to you.
Reproduction In The Home Aquarium
Reproduction in the home aquarium has not
yet been accomplished. For the hobbyist wishing to attempt
successful mating in their home aquarium, please view the
requirements listed above for space per individual, as well
as the number of individuals required. This would almost certainly
preclude successful mating. Hippo tangs are pelagic spawners
and the eggs spend a considerable amount of time in a platonic
stage, which makes it very difficult to successfully rear
the fry if the spawning does occur. Continued advancements
in food products for platonic larvae may someday make this
possible.
However, the good news is that captive-reared
Paracanthurus hepatus are available. Do not confuse
the terms captive-bred and captive-reared. Captive-bred means
bred in captivity. That has not yet been possible with Paracanthurus
hepatus. Captive-reared, however, means spawned in the
wild and captured at the larval/post-larval stage and grown
out in a protected "farm" of sorts. Once roughly
½ inch in length they are then shipped from the Solomon
Islands to the United States and grown another ½ -
¾ of an inch. At that time they are then moved to the
wholesale/retail level and are eventually offered for sale
to the hobbyist at a size of roughly 1 - 1.5 inches in length.
These captive-reared fish have proven to be excellent at adjusting
to home aquarium conditions, much more so than their adult
conspecifics.
Photos courtesy of Greg Rothschild.
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Conclusion
It doesn't matter which name you call it,
they all refer to an unmistakable fish that has won over the
hearts of many hobbyists. The care of these beauties is unlike
most other surgeonfish in that they require large amounts
of meat-based foods. When given proper care they are hardy
inhabitants of a home aquarium, though they are fast growers.
This brings up the next consideration in tank size. Only you
can decide what type of life your fish will live. Lastly,
please make an attempt at acquiring a captive-reared specimen.
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