Joe Burger's (JB NY) Reef Tank
History:
Growing up, from grammar school to college,
I've always had freshwater tanks. I wanted to get involved
with marine tanks in high school, but did not have the money.
After college, I found I did not have the free time to properly
take care of a tank the way I wanted to. Finally, after
my life settled down a bit, I decided to get back into the
hobby. This time I wanted to do a full reef set-up. So,
after a many months of planning, and much reading, I bought
a tank. Seventeen months later, I have the thriving reef
aquarium you see here.
Aquarium Profile
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180 gallon AGA
aquarium with 2 refugiums and a Lifereef sump
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Dimensions: 72"L x 24"H
x 24"W |
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DIY stand/canopy |
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Design:
The tank is an AGA 180 gallon
reef-ready model measuring 72" x 24" x 24"
and was set up in April of 2001. The basic design is a modified
Berlin set-up using live rock and live sand with a skimmer.
Two refugia and a sump add an extra 70 gallons to the total
system volume, making the overall capacity about 250 gallons.
Approximately 250 lbs. of Southdown sand make up the 3.5
- 4" DSB in the main tank. The rest of the biological
filtering system for the tank is comprised of 260 lbs. of
Fiji and Tonga branch live rock.
I built the stand and canopy myself. The stand is made with
2 x 4 bracing. The exterior is birch with the borders made
from pine, which has been stained and finished. The entire
front of the stand is removable. The front panel is attached
with industrial strength Velcro, which holds the front very
securely to the stand. I really wanted the front of the
stand to look very clean, with no doors visible. By doing
this, I also found it very easy to work under the tank.
The canopy is made with 2 x 2 bracing using the same birch/pine
exterior. All inside surfaces of the cap have been primed
and painted gloss white to maximize light reflectance. The
interior seams were sealed with silicon sealant, as well.
The back of the canopy is semi-enclosed, meaning only the
bottom 4 1/2" is open to allow for the plumbing and
much needed ventilation. More details and pictures of its
construction can be found here.
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Plumbing & Circulation:
Circulation in the tank is provided by
running the return lines through two ¾" Sea
Swirls. Two 1-inch drains bring the water to the refugia
in the basement, (approx. 10 feet), directly below the tank.
Each overflow drains directly into each refugium. One refugium,
a 20 gallon, holds macro algae for nutrient export. The
second, a 29-gallon tank, has a 6" DSB and a few pieces
of live rock for denitrification. The refugiums are relatively
new to the system and were added in May of this year.
Both refugia then flow into a Lifereef
sump containing sections to hold carbon, if necessary. A
Lifereef VS2-24 skimmer, powered by a Dolphin DP-1200 external
pump, is plumbed directly into the sump. Occasionally, ozone
is used, and is injected through the Venturi valve on the
skimmer. From the sump the water enters the return pump,
a Sequence 6000, and then goes back upstairs to the Sea
Swirls in the main tank.
Future plans to improve circulation include
adding a closed-loop system to the tank, using an Amp Master
3000 pump. I am currently experimenting with different positions
for the water return lines by using powerheads, before I
plumb the closed-loop, and it is for that reason that you
will see some power heads in the tank in some of my tank
pictures.
Lighting:
The lighting in the
tank consists of three 250 watt 10,000K single ended Ushio
metal halide bulbs, which are powered by PFO 250 watt HQI
ballasts. Two 140 watt 5' Super Actinic URI VHO bulbs supplement
the metal halide lighting and are powered by an Icecap 660
electronic ballast. Moonlight simulation is achieved using
two 11 watt incandescent blue bulbs running on an X-10 module
and is controlled by Bill Esposito's eLightMaster
program. The refugium lighting is on a semi-reverse daylight
lighting schedule, from 10 AM to 5 AM, which equals 19 hours
a day.
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07:30 AM: MH turns on right to left over a period
of 15 minutes to simulate sunrise, then turns
off shortly after VHO comes on.
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07:45 AM: VHO ON
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08:00 AM: MH OFF
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12:00 PM: MH ON
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08:35 PM: VHO OFF
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08:40 PM: MH turns off right to left over a period
of 15 minutes to simulate sunset.
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Top-off:
All of the top-off water is filtered
through an AquaFX Barracuda 4 stage 100 gpd RO/DI unit.
I store about 25 gallons of make up water in a covered container,
which is aerated with a small bubble stone. The tank evaporates
between 3-5 gallons a day. During the day, a Lifereef float
switch turns on a powerhead to deliver makeup water as needed.
Between the hours of 10 PM to 9 AM, all makeup water goes
through a separate powerhead that feeds an EcoTech Marine
Nilsen reactor into the sump. The main intent in adding
a Nilsen reactor, and using it in this manner, was to assist
in keeping the pH constant during the nighttime hours, when
the pH has a tendency to drop. The extra calcium the kalkwasser
provides, which helps supplement that provided by the calcium
reactor, is a side benefit. Since adding the Nilsen reactor,
my pH has remained very stable; 24-hour fluctuations are
on average less than 0.1.
Water Parameters
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Ca: 390-410 (Seachem) |
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Alk: 11 dKH (Salifert) |
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pH: 8.21-8.30 (Pinpoint) |
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ORP: 412-431 (Pinpoint) |
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Mg: 1250 (Seachem) |
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NH3: 0 (Salifert) |
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NO2: 0 (Salifert) |
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NO3: 0 (Salifert) |
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PO4: 0 (Salifert) |
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Temp: 79-82 |
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SG: 1.025 |
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Phytoplankton and Rotifer
Culture Station:
I started these from a petri dish
culture of Tetraselmis micro algae that I purchased
from Florida Aqua Farms. I now have five 2-liter bottles
of phytoplankton growing at any one time. Two 24-inch standard
florescent bulbs are used to light the phytoplankton. I
use so much phytoplankton that I usually need to conserve
it. On some days, I'm forced to use less phytoplankton in
the rotifer cultures because one of the bottles is not ready
to be harvested.
Rotifers are cultivated in a 5-gallon
tank on a shelf below the phytoplankton to help reduce the
chance of cross-contamination. I feed the rotifers about
10 oz. of phytoplankton a day. Most of the time the rotifer
culture is pretty dense. I also do a weekly 1-gallon water
change, if I can fit it into my schedule. The rotifer tank
can get very dirty, so I keep an extra 5-gallon tank around.
Once every 4-6 weeks I swap out the whole tank for a clean
one with new Instant Ocean salt mixed in.
Maintenance
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Daily: Phytoplankton, rotifers, fish food,
Iron
- Weekly:
Strontium (2 tsp), clean glass
- Bi-monthly:
20 gal water change. Run Carbon for 48 hours.
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Additional Equipment:
Calcium Reactor:
In order to meet the large calcium
requirements of the tank, I'm using a dual stage calcium
reactor built by Coralhound. A total of roughly 15 lbs.
of Knop Korallith reactor media is used in both chambers.
I recently upgraded from a 5 lb. to a 10 lb. CO2 tank, and
hopefully, this should last about 6 months before a refill
is needed.
Cooling and Heating:
An Aqua Logic 1/3 HP in-line Delta
Star titanium chiller keeps the temperature rock steady,
even during some nasty heat waves. During the winter, two
300 watt Won titanium heaters located in the refugia help
keep the temperature from dropping. A Medusa dual stage
controller performs temperature control. I keep the temperature
at 79 in the winter and bring it gradually up to 82 for
the duration of the summer.
Protection:
In the event of a power failure,
I use a Powerware Prestige 6501PSE UPS for temporary power
to the Sequence 6000. The UPS will last about 15 minutes,
which is generally enough to make it through any temporary
power failures or brownouts. In the event of an extended
power outage, I have a gas-powered Generac generator on
standby. So far, I have yet to put it into service.
Inhabitants:
The tank houses some 60 or so corals.
Over 35 different SPS corals, including various Acropora,
Montipora, and Pocillopora cnidarians, call
my tank home. The LPS population is based primarily upon
species in the Euphyllia family, with some additional
Physogyra specimens added to make my wife happy.
The tank is predominately hard stony corals, but there is
a large leather coral, a few gorgonians, and some small
patches of Xenia. The Xenia has been sequestered
to the sand bed, so I can keep it in check.
My reef tank also is home to 13
fish, including anthias, a mandarin, and even a Niger trigger.
All my resident fish are model reef citizens. They exhibit
no unruly behavior against any of the corals, or one another...so
far. The inverts are a plenty: urchins, shrimp, crabs, snails,
worms, cucumbers, mini-bristle stars and mini-sea stars.
At night, bristle worms, peanut worms, and copepods are
readily seen scurrying among the rockwork. Additionally,
hundreds of Rissoid snails come out and are visible on the
sand bed and rocks only at night. Feather dusters seem to
occupy every nook and cranny available. I find small clusters
of feather dusters all over the tank, even in the corners
of my refugium. I have also begun to find a significant
amount of sponges in the back corners and under rocks.
Overall, the growth of my corals
ranges from marginal to staggering. Some corals have only
grown a few centimeters, while some of my Acroporas
and Montiporas have displayed absolutely amazing
growth; in some cases 6-7 inches in less than 10 months.
While I do not keep my calcium levels at outrageously high
levels, my alkalinity and calcium have been very stable
for the past year, and I feel this has helped fuel some
of the growth
that I have seen.
Montipora delicatula (purple
rimmed)
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Acropora aculeus
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Acropora elegans
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Montipora confusa (purple)
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Acropora pulchra
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4 Acropora millepora
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Montipora foliosa (orange)
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Acropora selago
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Acropora desalwii
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Montipora capricornis (green)
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Acropora anthocercis
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Pocillopora damicornis
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18 Acropora sp. not classified
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Acropora secale
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3 Pocillopora sp. not classified
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Acropora batunai
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Acropora valida
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Stylophora sp.
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Acropora cophodactyla
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Seriatopora sp.
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Euphyllia paradivisa
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Physogyra lichtensteini
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Euphyllia glabrescens
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Alveopora gigas
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Euphyllia paradivisa
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Physogyra lichtensteini
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Pectinia alcicornis
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Caulastrea echinulata
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Trachyphyllia geoffroyi
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Tubastraea faulkneri
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Cladiella sp.
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2 Xenia sp.
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2 Gorgonian sp.
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*Note: all
corals are believed to be these species.
Fish
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(2) False Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion
ocellaris)
- Coral Beauty (Centropyge bispinosus)
- Yellow-Streaked Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus
luteovittatus)
- Hippo Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus)
- Six Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus
hexataenia)
- (3) Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias
squamipinnis)
- Spotted Mandarin (Synchiropus
picturatus)
- One-spot Foxface (Siganus unimaculatus)
- Niger Triggerfish (Odonus niger)
- Fathead Anthias (Serranocirrhitus
latus)
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- Cleaner Shrimp
- Peppermint Shrimp
- Trochus snails
- Cerith snail
- Astrea snails
- Margarita snails
- Fighting conchs
- Mexican margarita snails
- Red Scarlet Hermits
- Micro Hermits (from IPSF)
- Nerite snails
- Hawaiian feather duster
- Rissoid snails
- Tuxedo urchin
- Lettuce nudibranch
- Tigertail cucumber
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A growth sequence
of this Acropora from 9/01 (above left)
to the recent image on 8/02 (above right).
Another growth
sequence of a Montipora from 10/01 (above left)
to the recent image on 8/02 (above right).
Feeding:
The fish are fed twice a day.
I give them one cube of Mysis shrimp plus Spectrum
Thera + A brand pellets (by New Life) in the morning. In
the evening, they get one cube of Prime Reef and a cube
of Ocean Plankton. About two times a week I soak their nighttime
food supply with Boyd's Vita-Chem to help supplement vitamins,
as well as to prevent disease. All my fish are very healthy
and colorful. In addition, I add a piece of Seaweed Selects
every day or two for the fish to munch on. I just attach
it to a seaweed clip. Most of the fish love this stuff and
go crazy when I add it to the tank.
Corals and invertebrates are fed
live phytoplankton and live rotifers daily. I give them
1 - 1 ½ cups of phytoplankton, and about 1 gallon
of rotifers (sieved through a plankton net) added one half
hour before the lights go off. I have been doing this for
a few months and already have noticed a significant improvement.
Visit my website www.cnidarianreef.com
for more info and pictures.
Feel free to comment
or ask questions about my tank in the forum
for the online magazine.
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