I would like to express my thanks to
those responsible for featuring my tank on Reef Central.
Background:
I started too long ago with a pair of
guppies, soon increasing to 100 guppies, etc. After being
fishless for many years, I became intrigued with the fascinating
creatures of the marine world. I took the plunge in 1993
with a 75 gallon fish-only setup, operated using an underground
filter without a skimmer. I still have my first clownfish
from this setup. By this time I was hooked, but still without
much knowledge.
To be brief, I subsequently went to a
Dutch setup (similar to wet/dry bacteria filter) reef before
what I thought would be my final fix, a 120 gallon algae
scrubber system set up in 1997. Just prior to this, I made
the best move of all: joining the Pittsburgh Marine Aquarium
Society (PMAS.org).
The many friendships, support and knowledge base proved
invaluable. At the end of 1998 it was obvious that most
of the corals were outgrowing the 120. Realizing that I
now enjoyed the reef hobby more than one of my former passions,
shooting pool in my basement, I decided to set up a "big"
reef tank. The following is a description of that system.
Design:
The acrylic tank is in the center of
the room, replacing the pool table. It is 72" x 48"
x 30," having a capacity of 500 gallons with a 100
gallon sump. Three sides are viewable. One side is dark
with an 18 inch surface overflow. There is a 5" by
16" by 24" external overflow box, which is plumbed
with three 2" drains. The returns include two bottom,
one split side, two split top and one single top line, all
of which are 1".
The stand is built similar to a deck
with 2 x 6 and 4 x 4 supports and two sheets of 3/4"
plywood on top and one sheet approximately 4" above
the floor. An insulation board was placed between the tank
and plywood. There is 24" of clearance, but 30"
between the joists. The finish is veneer. The hood was built
out of 12" veneer. The front and rear panels can be
removed via slots at each end. All finish was stained and
sealed with a marine finish. The majority of the live rock
was placed on a PVC skeleton, which eliminated the need
for base rock. This created a large cavern and a higher
contour at the overflow end of the tank.
Water Circulation:
The original design consisted of three
1800 Mag Drive pumps. I realized more circulation was needed,
but did not want to use powerheads. I decided to use Seaswirls,
which are hidden by the hood. Two additional 1800's and
a single 1200 Mag Drive were plumbed via the overhead returns.
Gross pump capacity is 10,200 gallons per hour. With head
reduction, the actual flow is probably closer to 6,500 gallons
per hour.
Lighting
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Two 6 foot
metal halide/power compact retrofits are mounted
parallel to the front and 6 " above the water.
Each has three 175 watt 10,000 K Aqualine and
two 96 watt power compacts for a total of 1,450
watts. |
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Acrylic
splashguards are used. |
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The halides
are on from 8 to 10 hours depending on coral location. |
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The PCs
are on 13.5 hours. |
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Filtration
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Approximately
300 lbs. of Fiji live rock arranged in a low profile
sloping pattern with central crevice and varying
contours. |
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Approximately
750 lb. of live sand to start, which has not been
added to. |
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Skimmer: Euro
Reef, located in the sump, powered by two 750
gph Sen pumps, zero-clearance collection cup,
total height of 24". |
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Algae Scrubbers:
two scrubber boxes 24 x 8" and 32 x 10"
each 8" deep are mounted above the tank and
to the side. Each contains a fiberglass screen,
which sits on a dump tray. Both are fed by one
Mag Drive 750 with each having an effective flow
rate of 150 gallons per hour because of the 6
foot head. Each has a canopy, which has two 28
watt power compact bulbs that are on a reverse
daylight schedule for 14 hours. |
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Media: Purigen
(Seachem) ion exchange is used at the recommended
content. |
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Mechanical: each
overflow drains into a 100 micron filter bag. |
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Makeup Water
Poly-Bio-Marine Kold Ster-il has been
used from initial setup. A 50 gallon reservoir is used,
which has 15 lb. of aragonite calcium reactor media for
a slight alkalinity boost. Instant Ocean salt has been used
since initial setup.
Other Equipment:
Korallin calcium reactor sized for a
1600 gal capacity with ultra pure media.
Additives:
Some experimenting has been done.
Presently, ESV iodide, strontium and bromide/fluoride at
the recommended dosage.
Coral Vital DNA is added once per week.
Ca:
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over 400 (Red Sea)
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dKH:
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11-12 (Merck)
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PH:
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8.1-8.35 (monitor)
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ORP:
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425
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Phosphate:
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not detectable (Salifert)
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Nitrate:
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never tested
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Feeding:
A variety of flake, pellet and frozen.
AM feeding consists of 1 to 1.5 oz of dry.
PM feeding consists of 4 to 6 cubes of frozen.
ESV spray dried phytoplankton is used 2 x per week.
Maintenance:
Filter bags: 2 x 5 min per week
Skimmer: 2 x 5 min per week
Scrubber screens: scraped once/10 days, 15 minutes
Clean splash guards: 2 x 10 minutes per week
Clean acrylic with magnets: 2 x 10 minutes per week
Water changes of 25 gallons are made every 3 to 4 weeks.
Fish
5
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Hippo Tangs (5")
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1
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Orange Shoulder Tang (6")
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1
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Rabbit Fish (6")
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6
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Blue/green Chromis (2")
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1
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Clarki Clown (3")
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1
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Percula Clown (3")
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1
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8 Line Wrasse (4")
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2
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Banner Butterflys (2")
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1
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Algae Blenny
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2
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Grammas
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1
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Square Box Anthias
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2
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Purple Tangs
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Corals:
A variety of corals that offer just about every color and
shape imaginable.
LPS
Hammer
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Frogspawn
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Torch
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Bubble
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Caulastrea
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Blastomusa merleti
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Wellsi
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Lobophyllia
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Fungia
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Scolymia
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Symphyllia
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Monastrea
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diploastrea
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Platygyra
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Galaxea
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Pachyseris
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SPS
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Montipora
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Capricornus
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Digitata
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Spongodes
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Acropora
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Formosa
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Loripes
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Gemmifera
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Millepora
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Granulosa
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Hydnophora
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Porites
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Pocillopora
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Seriatopora
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Stylophora
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Soft
Ricordea
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mushrooms
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Sarcophyton
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giant Palythoa
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zoanthids
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Palythoa
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Capnella
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Sinularia
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Lobophytum
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Cladiella
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Tubipora
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star polyps
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Carpet anemone
(short tentacle)
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The coral placement has been
according to family types, which keeps stinging
to a minimum.
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Lessons Learned:
The cute little Hippo tangs that
started out quarter size and I even questioned whether they
were too small, have grown to 5", and have learned
to enjoy eating xenia, zoanthid polyps and some sarcophyton
and sinularia polyps.
Star polyps are beautiful, but growth must be controlled
by strategic rock placement.
Visualizing the amazing growth of most corals is a challenge
and must be planned for.
I feel a good quality skimmer is a must.
Observation is important to determine optimum tank location
for each coral.
Talking about experiences with other hobbyists is recommended.
Joining the local aquarium society has proven to be the
most important lesson.
Feel free to comment or
ask questions in the Reefkeeping online Tank of the Month
forum
on Reef Central or in this thread in the main
forums on Reef Cental.
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